Floss review: The Silk Mill

This floss review of The Silk Mill is part of a series about floss types and brands and how to use them.  See below for a giveaway!

Europe Themed Set
Europe Themed Set

 

What is it?

The Silk Mill produces over 700 shades of solid colour silk floss.  The floss is 100% Chinese monofilament silk thread and is produced in China to their specifications. The floss comes in skeins of six strands of 6.5 metres long, with a total skein length of 39 metres. These silks bring a subtle sheen to your stitching.

With over 700 shades of colour (compared to DMC’s 454 colours) The Silk Mill can be used anywhere you use DMC. They even supply a DMC to The Silk Mill Conversion chart.

Mini Baby Blues
Mini Baby Blues

History

The Silk Mill is a small, family run business founded in 2001.

The idea for the Silk Mill grew from frustration at trying to find decent thread in a wide range of colours for doing needlepoint. I experimented with silk, and although the thickness was not correct, I fell in love with the sheen and subtlety of silk. Nothing else would do!

After much investigation I was able to negotiate with a company in China who were prepared to meet my exact requirements and produce the silk just as I wanted it.

After a few false starts, together we created the perfect silk thread for needlepoint and embroidery. But it required such large orders that I realised I would have to share it with other needlework enthusiasts for production to be viable. So the idea to start an online business evolved. At the time I was living in a renovated water mill so The Silk Mill seemed like the perfect name for our new company.

We have chosen each colour and named it, often finding inspiration from flowers, and food or family experiences.

(From The Silk Mill)

The Silk Mill silk floss can be bought in a number of ways:

Single Colour – every one of The Silk Mill silk skeins can be bought individually. There is no minimum-sized order. This is however the most expensive way to buy Silk Mill floss.

Silk Mill - 3235 Vieux Rose
Silk Mill – 3235 Vieux Rose

Colour Shade Sets – 1 skein of each shade in various colours. Note that some of the major colours like red and blue have tonal shade sets (ie Reds and Oranges).

Ten Shades of Grey
Ten Shades of Grey

Themed Sets – These are colours that have been selected according to a theme.  All the shades in each theme work well together.

Silk Mill - Royal Pageant
Silk Mill – Royal Pageant

Buying the Colour Shade Sets  and the Themed Sets is much cheaper per skein than buying Single Colours.  The greater the number of skeins in a set, the greater the discount.

How to Use

The Silk Mill silks can be used anywhere you would normally use DMC.  Here I have experimented with 3235 Vieux Rose.

Silk Mill - 3235 Vieux Rose
Silk Mill – 3235 Vieux Rose

Silk Mill floss – one or two stands

One strand or two.
One strand or two.

The left swatch is stitched with one strand, the right is stitched with the usual two strands.  Both on 28ct white Cashel linen.

As can be seen, Silk Mill silk strands may seem to be quite thin, but they stitch up with amazing coverage.

Silk Mill Silk vs DMC Cotton

Silk Mill above, DMC below
Silk Mill above, DMC below

Top row, The Silk Mill 3235 Vieux Rose
Second Row, DMC 335 Rose.

One strand of Silk Mill silk floss provides so much more coverage than one strand of DMC cotton. This photo also shows the subtle sheen that the silk has.

(It also shows how unforgiving solid colour swatches can be – every non-perfect stitch is shown to all)

How to Open the Skein

Silk Mill - 3235 Vieux Rose
Silk Mill – 3235 Vieux Rose

As can be seen above, the tightly wound skeins easily fall apart to show the individual strands.

When you remove the paper wrapper, the skein easily shakes out into a circle of strands tied together in one spot.

Silk Mill - Opening floss

I find it best to snip through all the strands at that spot and discard the tie. This opens up into strands about 24″ long.  This is the perfect size for me.  You might prefer to cut them shorter depending on your needs.

These strands can tangle easily.  I recommend either using a floss card or rewinding the skein when not in use.

Yeah I cut my threads too long for this project.
Floss Card – Bordeaux Red and Chinese Gooseberry

 

Silk Mill - re-wound skein
Re-wound skein – Vieux Rose

Precautions

Silk skeins can be quite slippery so make sure you use the correct size needle or, like me, you will be needle hunting every time you let your floss dangle.

Dyed silk may not be water proof, especially reds.  If you think you might need to wash your fabric once your project is completed, it is best to test your thread first.

Take a strand and wet it in warm water, then roll in absorbent paper or a tea towel to dry.  If the floss leaves ANY residue behind, then it is not colour fast.

My Experience

I love using Silk Mill silks.  If I could afford it, I would replace my DMC cottons with these silks.  I love the sheen they give, I love the great fabric coverage!

The Silk Mill silk flosses stitch up easily, but the subtle sheen does highlight any unevenness in your stitching. Thankfully people don’t usually look at your stitching quite as closely as we have my stitch swatches above.

The floss unpicks easily, but being a Z-twist, it also unravels easily.  If you have to unpick more than one or two stitches, I recommend tossing the strand and starting a new one.

As well as the spot tests above, I am using Bordeaux Red and Chinese Gooseberry on Alessandra Adelaide’s Mystery Christmas Calendar.  The fabric is Colour Cascade Fabric’s Emerald City.

AAN Christmas Calendar Part 1
AAN Christmas Calendar Part 1

Acknowledgements:

My thanks to The Silk Mill website  for much of the source material used in this article:

The Silk Mill – About Us

The Silk Milk – About Our Silks

The Silk Mill DMC Conversion Chart

Places to Buy

The Silk Mill silk floss can only be purchased via The Silk Mill’s website in France. They ship worldwide. I found their postage costs to Australia to be quite reasonable.

Giveaway

To give a taste of Silk Mill silk floss, I am offering a Mini Silk set of your choice, to one lucky reader. To enter simply comment on this post, telling me which silk set you would love to win and what you would do with it.

Contest is open to anywhere in the world. Whilst we love comments and sharing via social media, only comments on this post will be eligible for entry.

Mel will use her trusty digital magic eight ball to decide the lucky Cross Stitch Review reader and then contact the winner.

Contest closes FOUR weeks from Publish; midday, 21 March 2015, Melbourne, Australia time (UTC+11 hours).

If you enjoyed this Review of The Silk Mill floss or want to share news of the Giveaway, feel free to send a link to this post to your friends or favourite groups.

If there is anything you wish I would add to the floss reviews, or if there is a floss you want me to review next, please comment below.

 

Last Updated: 21 February 2015

Hand Dyed Floss

What is hand dyed floss and how do I use it?

Dinky Dyes silk

Hand Dying techniques

There are many different ways of hand dyeing embroidery floss. Broadly speaking these techniques fall into two categories:

Vat Dyeing – the skeins or hanks of floss are immersed or dipped into a container of liquid dye

Space Dyeing  – where coloured dyes are placed along different parts of the floss skein or hank.

Vat Dyeing is where you make up a liquid solution of pigment or dye, and then you dip part or all if your floss into it, or when you drop your floss into it, giving it a bath. You can tie loose knots in your floss so that the dye penetrates some areas more than others. This is the easiest range of methods for mottled threads or subtle dye variations.

Space Dyeing  is where coloured dyes are deliberately added to specific sections of the floss skein or hank. Usually the dye solution is added to the floss. Space Dyeing methods are mainly used to create colourful rainbow threads.

Dye Types

There are many different types of dyes and pigments used to dye floss.  Some are powders that must be mixed into water or oil, some are already liquid, some are derived from plant materials, or squished insects, others are made in a laboratory.  Some require a “mordant” to hold the colour to the floss, others do not. Often different dye processes are used on synthetic fabrics such as rayon and nylon to those processes used for cotton, silk, cashmere, wool etc.

Every different dyer uses their own type of dying process and dyes or pigments.  This is why some hand dyed threads are colourfast and others are not.  Read the label carefully if you are planning on stitching a large design or a small travel piece, as the threads may not be washable at the end.

Classic Colorworks

Cleaning tips

If you do need to clean an item that has non-colourfast threads on it, here’s how to do it.

  • Turn on the tap over your basin or sink.
  • Use tepid or cold water.
  • Do not put the plug in.
  • Rinse your fabric under the water, thoroughly wetting it.
  • If any colours run, this is usually excess dye leaching from the thread. Leave your stitching under the running water until the water runs clear.

If you put the plug in or swirl this fabric through a basin of standing water then that excess dye lands on your fabric and stains it.  If you leave the water running without a plug then the water carries the free dye down the drain before it can land and stain.

Caron waterlilies

Photographing floss and Colour Vision

The same issues we discussed in the Hand Dyed Fabrics article apply here. There is no possible way for either monitors or printers to accurately reflect the full range of colours that our eyes can see. However, you can often get a good idea of the range and variation in the shading.

Carrie's Silks

Hand Dyed Means Unique

Again as discussed in the Hand Dyed Fabrics article, there are just some variables in the hand dying process  that you can never plan for:  The minerals in the water used in the dye bath, the temperature of the water versus the temperature of the ambient air on the day, the humidity levels or how the floss was dried.  All of these factors can these can subtly change the characteristics of the final piece.

If you are buying variegated threads for a specific project, ALWAYS BUY THE WHOLE AMOUNT OF FLOSS AT THE SAME TIME . Wherever possible, ask that the skeins are supplied from the SAME DYELOT.

This is particularly important if you are planing to stitch a large piece in hand dyed floss, By requesting skeins from the same dyelot, you will know both the shade and patterning will be consistent throughout your piece.

Gentle Arts Sampler Threads  - Reds and Blues

How do you stitch with hand dyed threads

The way you stitch with hand dyed threads makes a significant difference to the finished effect. To show this, I have stitched a sampler to illustrated some of the more common stitching styles.  I have used a skein of Carrie’s Jelly Fish as there are many colour changes.

2014-12-12 16.36.46

Left block and first long strip were stitched:

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\  then ///////////////// (yes I was taught by a left-hander)

In both the block and the row, some of the colours are barely seen because they are used on the bottom  \\\\ and others are shown more because they are solely used as the top ////,  This can create an unusual look for your piece. I do like the interplay of colours with the yellow over pink add the purple over green.

I’ve only see one pattern that deliberately asked to be stitched that way; “Is it my Eyes” by Susan Saltzgiver. Most of these blocks have the bottom \ in a different floss to the /,  Usually light over dark but sometimes dark over light.

Is it my eyes - Susan Saltzgiver

Middle block and middle strip are stitched one full stitch at a time, so \ then / then \ then /   The rows are stitched:

01, 02, 03 … 09, 10
20, 19, 18 … 12, 11
21, 22, 23 … 29, 30
40, 39, 38 … 32, 31   etc

Although it doesn’t look much different in the block, the row shows how this can lead to a stripey stitched effect.  This method best reflects the real patterning in the hand dyed thread. One such as this:

Fire flower finished

Right Block and third strip were stitched via my way. I’ve developed a habit of stitching two stitches, then going to the next row and stitching the same two stitches, and then back up to the previous row and stitching another two stitches, then down to the next row and stitching two stitches etc.  So the block was stitched like this:

01, 02, 05, 06 … 17, 18
03, 04, 07, 08 … 19, 20
38, 37, 34, 33 … 22, 21
40, 39, 36, 35 … 24, 23
41, 42, 45, 46 … 57, 58
43, 44, 47, 48 … 59, 60 now there are three rows left so
86, 85, 80, 79 … 62, 61
88, 87, 82, 81 … 64, 63
90, 89, 84, 83 … 66, 65

This produces more of a mottled effect instead of stripes:

Angle-of-Love-Finished

Or you can throw all of that out the window and cut your hand dyed threads so that you choose where each section of colour goes.  In this case, I stitched the left project using my usual two stitches method.  On the right, I cut the thread so that the colours went where I wanted them to.

Summary

Hand dyed thread will always produce an effect that is guaranteed to be unique. No two stitchers will create exactly the same outcome and often this variation creates some truly beautiful finishes. Ultimately, you can stitch with your hand dyed threads any which way you please. It all depends on the effect you want for each project.

Stitched Sampler

Places to Buy

World Wide:

These are threads that are available in most cross stitch stores:

Anchor Multicolours. Anchor Embroidery Floss is spun from the world’s finest 100% Egyptian cotton. Anchor offers you 24 multicolours that are completely washable and offer outstanding colorfastness.

Caron Waterlilies Hand-dyed 12 ply spun silk. 6 yard skeins. Easily divided, use two plies for cross stitch over two threads on 28 count fabric.

Caron Wildflowers A single strand hand-dyed cotton in variegated colors. It has more of a matte finish when stitched.  36 yard skein.

Classic Colorworks (formerly Crescent Colours) A hand dyed floss that begins with 100% cotton DMC six strand floss and gentle fabric dyes designed specifically for cotton. Available in a variety of beautiful colors that work well with cross stitch. 5 yard skeins.

Classic Colorworks (formerly Crescent Colours) Belle Soie Silk Floss These silks are hand dyed with the same creative eye and flair you’ve come to enjoy in their cotton flosses, with a softness unmatched in other silks. They start with a 12-stranded spun silk, and package them into 5-yard skeins.

Dinky Dyes Now based in the United States, Dinky Dyes started in Western  Australia.  Luxurious hand-dyed 6 strand spun silk sold in 8 meter skeins.

DMC Color Variations These give you the look of hand dyed floss with the added quality and reassurance that they are made by DMC. Twenty-four beautiful multi-color and tone on tone shades that are colorfast.

Gentle Art Sampler Threads Six Strand hand over-dyed floss. Sold in 5 yard skeins.

Gloriana This spun silk has silk’s beauty, luster, and shine but doesn’t catch on your hands. Gloriana Silk is soft and remarkably easy to use. 12 strand silk, 6 yard skein.

Gloriana Florimell Au Ver a Soie Soie d’Alger artisan-dyed 7 strand silk by Gloriana Threads. 5 yard skein. Hand-washable in cold water.

Needlepoint Inc Northern Lights 8 Strands. Colourfast. 100% Pure Chinese Silk. Overdyed to create this wonderful range of multicolour silk threads.

Thread Gatherer Silk N Colors 100% silk, 12-ply, 6 yard skeins. Silk N Colors initially separates into 3 groups of 4-ply. Before stitching, separate and put together the desired ply. Cross-stitching: we recommend 1-ply on 30 count or finer, 2-ply on 28 count linen.

Threadworx Overdyed Floss A premium quality, six-strand embroidery floss made from the finest long-staple, 100% Egyptian Giza cotton. Sold in 20 yard skeins.

Threadworx Vineyard Silk Artisan dyed by ThreadworX. 100% Pure Chinese Silk. Twisted. 20 yard skeins.

Valdani  Superb Hand-Overdyed colors in Cotton Floss for the “matte” look. Embroidery Floss Skeins in 6-ply cotton for cross-stitch

Weeks Dye Works Hand Over-Dyed Floss. 5 yard skeins. The colors are variegated enough to be noticeable, yet subtle enough to blend naturally. Because it is pliable, this fiber is perfect for cross stitch and needlepoint on many counts of fabric and canvas.

Australia:

Colour Streams Colour Streams hand dyed embroidery silk threads are available in 50 glorious overdyed colours.

Cottage Garden Threads Our passion is to produce hand dyed threads inspired by the diversity of colour among the flowers and foliage of a cottage garden.

Primke Threads are hand dyed cotton threads from Australia, they come in 72 colours.

Stitches and Spice is Australia’s only floss hand dyer. There are 56 colours in Naomi’s range and they complement her fabric colours. 5 metre skeins of Hand-dyed 6 stranded 100% cotton.

France:

Annick Abrial creates beautiful hand dyed floss colours. 100% cotton, 6 strands stranded, hand-painted, which are capable of steam ironing. The colors are guaranteed in time and are 8 metre skeins.

Rainbow Fingers  I’m a fiber artist living in France that has a passion for dyeing also.

The Silk Mill Our silk is 100% pure Chinese monofilament silk thread. The thread comes in skeins of six strands of 6.5 metres long, with a total skein length of 39 metres. There are 700 shades of silk to choose from.

Italy:
Romy’s Creations Overdyed DMC floss in beautiful colours.

Poland:

Nina’s Threads 100% stranded cotton threads, hand dyed with professional dyes, for embroidery and cross stitch. 8 meters / skein. Rinsed in neutral scent after dye.

South Africa:

Chameleon Threads are individually hand-dyed in South Africa using cotton, rayon and pure silk.

House of Embroidery Un-dyed cotton threads are imported from Europe and un-dyed silk is imported from Japan. Our threads are dyed in South Africa, using European dyes.

United Kingdom:

Crafty Kitten These threads are dyed to match our fabric colour range.  Each skein is 5m in length. These threads have been hand-dyed on high quality DMC white stranded embroidery cotton.

Jodyri Designs Hand dyed cotton threads priced at 99p per 8m skein. These cannot be guaranteed to be colourfast

Polstitches Dragon Floss has some wonderful thread names.  6 strand cotton, 8 metre skeins.

Rainbow Girl Each item is unique, and cannot be reproduced. I use a low water immersion technique with procion dyes. Every item is thoroughly rinsed and washed in Synthrapol, after dyeing, but I cannot guarantee that they are colourfast.

Sparklies All my threads are full skeins of DMC, hand dyed to an overdyed finish. Currently these are mostly two-tone, but I hope to expand the range to include multi-tone colours in the future.

Stef Francis 6-strand cotton, length 10m.  12 strand Silk, length 6m.

Thread Pickerz Silkz Here you will find wonderful silks to help make your cross stitch projects stand out. Each silk skein has 50 single strand lengths of approx 0.96m in length.

United States:

Carrie’s Creation Threads All threads are 100% cotton DMC,  and available in either the 6 strand cotton, the premium weight floss known as Floche, or Silk!

Dragonfly Lotus Produces hand dyed silk and wool threads.

Fiberactive Organics Our Shop Specializes in hand-dyed organic cotton products. We use low impact Fiber-Reactive Dyes to achieve the most vivid and fade resistant colors for all your project’s needs.

Fiberlicious  is a Facebook only dyer. Cotton floss is 6 strands and 10 yards long (approx).Silk has 50 single strands of 1.2m long which is 60 m in total. They are dyed with variation of colors (not colorfast). My silk is Pure silk (Flat Silk, 2 plies), not processed silk with polyester so it’s pretty soft and delicate.

Garibaldi’s Needle Works is an ebay only store that produces beautiful mottled fabrics and threads.

Hand Dyed Fibers by Vicki Clayton. Silk floss comes in two sizes. Regular silk floss is about the same size as DMC. Premium floss is much thicker and has single strand coverage over 2 on 28 ct. – 32 ct. You can use the drop down box to choose which type of floss you would like. Vicki is swamped with orders and has taken down her floss pages for a couple of weeks.

Mo’s Sale a Facebook supplier that now has her own website. Often releases new colours in themes such as MockingJay and Harry Potter.

Rumple Beary Rumors On Facebook and Etsy.  My skeins are hand measured and dyed/painted, so each will vary.  10 yards each of 6 strand cotton embroidery floss  Most times you will get a bit more than 10 yards. My threads are hand painted/dyed on a DMC base white thread and are variegated.

Victorian Motto Sampler Shoppe On Ebay and Etsy. My floss is 20, one yard pieces, per skein.

Discussion

Did I miss any good dyers?  Please comment below and I will add them to the list. Also, what article do you want next weekend?

Feedback

Did you like this Weekend Spotlight? Did it contain all the expected information? Is there anything you would like added or removed from this? Do you know of a particular chart, designer, stitch along or accessory creator you want to see featured here? If so, please head to the Suggestions page and let me know.

Last updated: 13 December 2014

 

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